A motor with a nameplate rating of 115 volts is therefore designed to operate between 103.5 and 126.5 volts. The NEMA (National Electrical Manufacturer's association) standard calls for electrical appliances and equipment to be designed to operate between -10% and +10% of nominal nameplate voltage. Properly designed electrical equipment is designed to deal with those variances. Depending on whose set of standards you look at, the voltage could vary as much as +5% -13%. The nominal voltage of electrical service-120/240 in the US-is the average voltage over time. When we fired up the big power supplies (the beam supplies for big klystron tubes), the fluorescent lights all over the building would go out for a fraction of a second. Back in the early days of my career as a broadcast engineer, I worked at a high-power UHF TV station. There are some loads-big motors, for example-that draw substantially more current when starting up than when running. The voltage on commercial electrical power lines fluctuates, depending on the load. Newer equipment can often be controlled indirectly by microprocessors that handle variances in the line voltage, so they're somewhat safe to use on the lower voltages. Running at a lower voltage increases the heat from the windings, so you want to watch the line from getting too low. Motors, on the other hand, prefer to run at the voltage they were designed for. Electronics are downconverted to 12V, 5V, etc., so a little less at the high end is irrelevant. So, with that in mind, most things will work just fine on 110V, even if it was designed to run off of 120V. You'll see mention of 110V, 115V, and so on, and many people may actually measure something similar at their wall, but it's designed to be 120V (and 240V when used across both phases, not the 210V, 220V, etc. it can vary a bit once it makes it to your house (particularly if you're far away from the main grid). Once you take into account resistive losses, long line lengths, etc. If you say 60KW battery vs 60KWh battery nobody will misunderstand you, the energy stored in batteries is measured in kilowatt hours so in this context KW is merely shorthand for KWh, btw you would be technically correct if you stated the energy capacity of a battery in BTUs instead of KWhs but that would be confusing because nobody uses BTUs when describing electrical energy although it's common when describing the energy stored in a gallon of gasoline or a cubic foot of natural gas As for rims vs wheels, car wheels are commonly called rims, always have been, if you say rims people will always know that you are talking about the metal portion of the wheels.Technically, what is supposed to be at every outlet in your house is 120V. energy from the wall is converted into stored energy in the battery. An EVSE looks like a scaled up phone charger, the fact that it passes AC through to the car and that the AC to DC conversion takes place within the car vs doing the conversion itself and passing DC is invisible to an observer, and completely irrelevant since the end result is the same, i.e. It's fine to say charger instead of EVSE, everyone knows what you mean, it also makes more sense if you look at things as a black box. People understand context and are capable of inferring what someone says even if what they say isn't technically correct. English is not Verilog, in English you don't have to be exactly correct because humans are intelligent, computers aren't.
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